Wednesday 31 October 2007

(boys) CORPUS (girls)

CORPUS

As may or may not have become apparent, I'm a menswear-as-womenswear addict. I love a good dress and a well cut skirt but my own style, without even realising it, seems to have become increasingly Andro. These days I head up to Topman before I head down to Topshop. I can't say I've completely given into either side, it's become more of a balancing act between Masculine and Feminine but the two questions I ask myself most seem to be 'Is this too girly?' and 'Too much Arthur rather than Martha?'. Then it's just a case of finding a good place in the middle.

All this considered, for me, L.A brand Corpus, (Keith Richardson and Jarrod Cornish), have it right on all levels. Their AW07 Lookbook made me want to run to the nearest forest, skulk about in a hat then row off into the sunset with my check shirt. Why, they even managed to stop me disliking Trilbies for 10minutes, that's no mean feat. The photography is beautiful, not particularly avant-garde or groundbreaking, but simple and atmospheric-The attempt to tell a story and that filmic quality that immediately reminded me of Michael Pitt wandering around the woods in Last Days. Beautiful. No surprise to hear then that the boys came from a movie background, their costume and visual effects skills used to full effect here.

So Aesthetics-check. Now the clothes? Simple cuts in both women's and menswear. A touch of femininity in places but the overriding 'new American classics' theme leaves everything feeling boyish and stark, which works perfectly for me. Even the way the lone female model is styled and shot; one of the boys as opposed to eye-candy of the piece (still thoroughly gorgeous of course), reflects the kind of interchangeable boy/girl thing that they do so well.

SS07 was just as impressive. A seersucker suit, the pairing of a salmon shirt with red trousers, Margaret Howell style tailoring, 'denim' leggings, a unisex short black mac etc etc. All gorgeous, all with that andro sensibility. Yes, on first look it may remind you of the ubiquitous 'boy in the band' look, but these are the heights that Pete and Mr Winehouse are reaching for but never quite make. The inclusion off old school workwear/prep/tailoring/grunge, even modernist references and their ability to mix and match them all is what sets them apart in a saturated market.

Now, enough fawning, time to look and see....some clips from AW07 and FW07, as well as a peek at SS08 and their beautiful Flaunt story (in all its subtle gender-ambiguous glory on their myspace page)

A CLICK FOR BIG situation...


Flaunt

SS07

SS07
AW07
SS08

12 INCHER - LUDUS PT.3

LUDUS
PICKPOCKET/DANGER CAME SMILING

New Hormones (1982)


COVER ART: LINDER

UNIQLO LONDON: Diluted Style

*****
All change down West-End way as ever. Currently there are two brand spanking new Uniqlo stores poised to open on Oxford Street, both a matter of metres away from the Flagship in the Plaza (the land that time forgot) and the original Regent St branch. Spreading like wildfire, it seems this budget APC has been given the stamp of approval. But this rapid expansion begs the question-If the brand has become a UK high-street staple, why are we still being fed an edited Uniqlo? Take a look at Japan and the U.S: The UniqloBlack collection styled by Yasuhiro Watanabe, the Gorgeous Alice Roi and Philip Lim collections, that impressive collaboration with Cloak's Alexandre Plokhov, The full UT T-shirt range (including designs by Terry Richardson) as well as just a more extensive take on the basics...London is a captive audience when it comes to one-off ranges and designer collabs and yet for some unknown reason these never reach our shores. In fact, on last inspection UK-U'qlo seemed to be moving backwards, I've never seen the store look so dull and uninspiring; we love you Uniqlo but we suspect you're holding out on us...

Ah Well, anyway, the rant comes in wake of discovering that Issue3 of Uniqlo paper is out (online at least), a few shots follow below, click to big. We'll probably never get our paws on any of the clothes featured, but interviews with Penny Martin (Showstudio), Peter Saville, Dizzee Rascal, Mr Sartorialist, Samantha Morton, Katy England and some typically brilliant fashion stories from Nicola Formichetti still make it a very worthwhile read. Here's hoping Uniqlo's creative push will finally translate to the UK shop floor...






All Images-Uniqlo

Tuesday 30 October 2007

Self-Service: Fall/Winter 2007


I've had my copy for over a week now. As always, I'm saving it for just the right moment. It's still got that *New* magazine smell. I can't wait...




This time round: Ezra Petronio's polaroids, Basel Art Fair, Chanel party-Cannes, Sonia Rykiel, Donatella Versace, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Steven Meisel, Yohji Yamamoto, Plum Sykes, Jil Sander, Mario Sorrenti, Venetia Scott, Katja Rahlwes, Terry Richardson, Alasdair McLellan, Hans Feurer, Matt Irwin, Daniel Jackson, and stylists Camilla Nickerson, Suzanne Koller, Marie Chaix, Francesca Burns, Benjamin Sturgill, Beth Fenton, Jane How, Carine Roitfeld, Jacques Herzog, Laudomia Pucci, Chandler Burr, Nadje Swarovski, Kris Van Assche...

***(not so) DAILY STREETSTYLE SELECTION***

HEL-LOOKS
HELSINKI

>>white shirt n' leathers<<

IMAGE:HEL-LOOKS

Monday 29 October 2007

MIRANDA JULY:

>>>+<<<
You, Me & Everyone We Know is on Channel4 as I type and I'm reminded of Miranda July's new book (in collaboration with Harrell Fletcher) a collection of submitted work from the 'Learning to Love you more' website, a sort of self-improvement, interactive art project that invites participants to follow a series of tasks then displays the results on the site. A simple line of text, an instruction, to encourage you to do something that seems daft on first sight but which soon becomes an experiment in lateral thinking, pushing you to reassess the way in which you relate to the world and people around you. Some are silly but fun (Assignment 18-Recreate a poster you had as a teenager) others a little on the heavy side. (Assignment 52 -Write the phonecall you wish you could have).

The book is fascinating, Perhaps it's my love of lists and tasks and those ol' primary school workbooks, but the structure of the project really appeals. Admittedly, it can get a little overly saccharine at times, homemade candles and patchwork quilts come to mind, but I genuinely enjoyed the book...and the unfamiliar warm and fuzzy feeling that followed.




Click

Sunday 28 October 2007

***(not so) DAILY STREETSTYLE SELECTION***

TheFacehunter
Paris
>>POWER-PANTS<<
IMAGE:Thefacehunter

||||| First Date ||||||






IMAGE: THEIMAGECOOPERATIVE
WORDS-Jane Birkin
The Observer Interview-Tim Adams: 28 Oct '07
CLICKY

Saturday 27 October 2007

Friday 26 October 2007

***(not so) DAILY STREETSTYLE SELECTION***

FACEHUNTER
PARIS
IMAGE:THEFACEHUNTER
Loose trousers
loafers
silk top

The Tie-Dye Dilemma

........////|||||\\\\........
I'm torn. On the one hand my almost obsessive avoidance of anything
Rave-related has me thinking that Tie-Dye is bad move. On the other, there's a part of my brain that draws me to it. The same part that has me watching Streetmate and sent me into a potentially life threatning cheese frenzy when McD's added Mozzarella sticks to their menu. The thing with TD is that it's been bubbling under for quite some time now. I wasn't at all surprised to see sprinklings of it during the SS08 shows but the real turning point was that Topshop summer offering, the Unique 'shocking' Pink n' Blue playsuit. Initially I laughed, mocked, poured scorn over the very idea. Two days later I'm thinking about it at the bustop like some forbidden multicoloured desire.


So, I finally gave in, who am I kidding? Guilty pleasures always win out. However this turned out to be more of a compromise then a surrender. In the continuing saga that is my Love/mild dislike for American Apparel, I picked up one of their 'Acid Wash' (ah,the power of semantics) Crew neck Tees, soft and sheer in a dappled mauve. It's my new favourite t-shirt, I'm loathed to wash it because that would mean we would be parted for a day. The effect is pretty subtle, this isn't a an ode to Woodstock and Bongs, more a touch of sharp colour that hints at Hippy but stops short of being too trend-specific. Too scared to go the whole hog, it looks like Pseudo Tie-dye might just be the way to go. Yeah, it's bit half-fat mayonnaise but it feeds the need...

AA


Rosalie Knox

Narcisco Rodriguez
SS08


Veronique Branquinho
SS08


Runway Images:Vogue/Style
Rosalie Knox @ www.oogaboogastore.com/
American Apparel

Wednesday 24 October 2007

GETTING GLU-ed and LOVING IT

GLU (Girls Like Us) is a small but perfectly formed Dutch magazine brought to you by Jessica Gysel and Kathrin Hero and while its central theme is Girls wot like Girls it's equally dedicated to contributing visual goodness and creative flair to the independent publishing cause. I guess you'd describe it as 'general interest', the content divided equally between interviews/profiles and some eccentric fashion stories, but the general feel is somewhere between informative journal and slick zine. Most impressive is their use of archival material, some dating way back to the days of petticoats n' Penny-Farthings. The latest issue, and possibly their best cover yet, includes some knockout shots of Punk bombshell Edwige Belmore (friend/muse to Warhol, Helmut Newton, Pierre et Gilles...), as well as a photostory bringing to life prep-love in 80s New Hampton, ahhhh, sweet...

Working along similar lines with their previous publication KUTT, BUTTS cheeky (equally pink) twin sister, the pair have been collaborating with all manner of well-known creatives for some time including Ryan McGinley, Wolfgang Tillmans, K8 Hardy, Peaches, Richard Kern...available all around town, Magma are currently stocking back issues for those looking to catch-up, in the meantime, peek this>>>


((CLICKCLICK))









KUTT REVISITED


ALL IMAGES: GLU

Monday 22 October 2007

DIFFERENT IN THE MIND


BILLY THE KID
A Film By Jennifer Venditti

"I’m not black, I’m not white, not foreign…just different in the mind – different brains, that’s all…"



I'll admit it, it was the poster that drew me in; That bowtie, the jaunty pose, the surly teenage stare, but after a bit of delving it looks like this multi-award winning documentary might just be an underground hit come next year. Now, I know 'geeky, emotionally confused, outsider' may not be the most original subject matter for a film but Billy is a character who deserves a couple of hours of your time. More

Release date-08


Sunday 21 October 2007

FLICKR (says)WHAT?

Y'know, flickr can be pretty addictive and whilst most of the content is made up of grinning babies and macro flower shots, in amongst all that jazz is some really beautiful photography and-as if by magic, some of it's going to appear right here for you to enjoy. First up a masterclass in Polaroid Image Transfer.
Pack a bag, grab some red lipstick and head back in time to 80s America.
Today's Flickr *GOLD STAR* goes to the brilliant...

MIKEROSEBURY

click fo' big...






ALL IMAGES: MIKEROSEBURY@FLICKR

12 INCHER - LUDUS PART 2.

LUDUS-THE VISIT

New Hormones 1980


COVER: LINDER (?)

Friday 19 October 2007

***DAILY STREETSTYLE SELECTION***

THE SARTORIALIST
Stockholm


IMAGE: THE SARTORIALIST
Hooded Floral Coat-Dress

EYE-BUFFET DOWN DOVER STREET

The reassuringly expensive and ever-changing Dover Street Market. Colourful stuff to introduce those pupils to, click for Biggie...

LANVIN'S NEW 'SPACE'


MICHAEL COSTIFF'S WORLD ARCHIVE

TOM DIXON/ARTEX
IMAGES:DSM

GRATUITOUS BELMONDO MOMENT

JEAN PAUL BELMONDO

Thursday 18 October 2007

***DAILY STREETSTYLE SELECTION"

REMEMBER SUMMER? PT2.
FACEHUNTER
HELSINKI

IMAGE:FACEHUNTER.BLOGSPOT.COM

FRIEZE SUCKA

FRIEZE 07 was, well, pretty poor. This had nothing to do with the art on display, there were some fantastic pieces throughout, but rather the event itself-
the organisers obviously now going for an Ascot meets Ideal Home Exhibition atmosphere. Anyway, more detailed review on it's way, in the mean time some goodies from the day...




Joe Tilson
Waddington Gallery


Guy de Coinet
Air De Paris




Dash Snow
Rivington Arms

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